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1. Protecting the first section of a bolted climb Problem: There is no protection offered to a climber on the first section of a climb from the ground to the first bolt. This is especially challenging when the bolt is placed a long distance from the ground or the climb starts on a ledge that could result in a substantial fall that effects the climber and the belayer. On some climbs, the first section of the rock will not naturally hold a bolt (crumbly or broken rock) and thus the first climber decided to not place fixed gear. On other climbs, the first climber decided that the route is well below her abilities and thus decided to save money by placing fewer pieces of fixed protection. Solution: Use the Stick Clip to place the first quickdraw with your climbing rope attached to the bottom carabiner on the first bolt. Once the quickdraw is firmly locked in its closed position with the Stick Clip and pole removed, your rope is now set up for a top rope situation. Assuming the rest of the climb is bolted correctly so that the distance between bolts will not allow for a ground fall, then your chances of a ground fall are drastically reduced. |
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