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3. Don't back off a hard section of a climb, clip through it

Problem:  As a lead climber, pushing one's limit is essential to progress.  There are times when a section of a particular climb proves too challenging to complete either because it is over the climber's limit or because the climber is exhausted.  If no other climbers in the party is willing to take the lead, the climber is faced with several choices: 1. down climb the climb, removing each piece of protection as the decent is made or, 2. leave a 'bail-carabiner' at the top point of the climb and get lowered by the belayer.  Most climbers choose to leave a bail-carabiner.  

Solution: With the Complete Stick Clip product, you are able to attach the carrying bag to your harness and use it to clip through a particularly challenging section of rock.  Connect statically into the last bolt hanger on the route by connecting an additional quickdraw into the bolt hanger and connecting the other end of the quickdraw firmly to your harness.  

Determine the distance from the highest point  you can reach to the next bolt on the climb.  If the distance is less than the length of your pole, then proceed.  

Determine the distance from the ground to your fixed position.  If the distance to the ground from your fixed position is more than twice the distance to the next bolt above, then proceed.  

You will now have two quickdraws in the bolt hanger.  Keep the original quickdraw rope and belayer configuration in place.  It is critical that your belayer remain attentive as any lead climbing situation would require.  If possible, identify an additional anchor point and connect yourself to that anchor point to achieve two anchor points in addition to your rope and belayer.  Now that you are 'fixed' to the rock, remove the pole from the bag and extend the pole.  Place a free quickdraw into the Stick Clip.  Have your belayer give you slack so that you have enough rope to put it through the bottom carabiner of the quickdraw on the Stick Clip pole and reach up and clip the next bolt on the route.  Remember that the belayer should always have the climber on belay during the entire climb.  

Once the bolt hanger  is clipped, remove the Stick Clip and pole from the bolt.  Make sure that the carabiner is in the shut position around the hanger and that the gear is appropriately positioned.  Have the belayer pull in any excess rope so that the rope is tight.  Place the pole into the bag and triple check all gear.  Once checked, remove the 'static' quickdraw.  You are now in a top-rope situation to the next bolt and can either climb and hang your way up the section or 'batman' up the rope by pulling on the other rope leading from the upper bolt hanger to your belayer.  By following this technique, you will be able to finish the next section of the climb and save leaving behind a carabiner to descend.

www.epicsport.com Main Phone: 1 (801) 658-0021 Main Fax: 1 (866) 397-6228 www.stickclip.com
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