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4. The modern 'rodeo' clip

Problem:  Sometimes a climber would like to have his rope pre-placed in the first bolt of a climb, but there is already a quickdraw on the bolt.  If the climb is overhanging and the quickdraw is not laying against the rock, some climbers will attempt to swing a loop of rope through the bottom carabiner through a quick whip action and hopefully 'snap' the rope into place like a rodeo cowboy.  While this can be a great deal of fun, it is not the quickest or most effective way to get the job done.

Solution: There are two solutions using the Stick Clip.  

Solution 1 - Place a carabiner in the Stick Clip (this does not have to be a quickdraw) in the locked open position.  Make a bight, or bend, in the rope (with enough rope so that  each tail can reach the ground) and place it inside the carabiner.  Looking from the back of the Stick Clip, the bight of rope should sticking out from one side with about a six inch loop of rope visible and the two tails should be sticking out the other side.  Position the bight perpendicular to the hanging carabiner above.  Carefully raise the Stick Clip pole to the hanging quickdraw.  Position the loop of rope in front of the closed gate on the bottom carabiner of the quickdraw.  Once in place,  carefully pull down on the two tails, thereby making the loop smaller until it opens the gate of the carabiner.  Once the rope is inside the carabiner and the gate of the hanging carabiner is shut, pull down the Stick Clip pole.  You should now have a top rope situation with the rope running from the ground through the bottom carabiner of the hanging quickdraw, and back down to the ground.  Double check that the gate of the carabiner is closed and you are ready to climb!

Solution 2 - Use the Stick Clip as you normally would when you are placing a carabiner on a bolt hanger, but instead, connect the carabiner that is in the Stick Clip onto one of the two hanging carabiners on the bolt hanger.  You will then have two quickdraws hanging with the rope through one of them.

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